Margarita Carrillo Arronte champions Mexican cuisine. From 1996 to 2006, she was the Mexican Ministry of Agriculture's chef. She campaigned to get Mexican cuisine recognised as a UNESCO cultural property and has run popular restaurants. Her new book is Mexico The Cookbook (Phaidon; $59.95. See penguin.com.au.)
WHAT'S YOUR FAVOURITE TABLE IN MEXICO CITY?
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Restaurante Nicos in Azcapotzalco; it is always a joy to eat there and there is always something interesting to taste. The duck in red pumpkin seed sauce served with freshly handmade corn tortillas melts in your mouth. All the food is special. Gerardo Vazquez, the chef, uses local, organic ingredients from small producers and is interested in rescuing old family and friends' recipes. It has an awarded Mexican wine list, and the service is not pretentious. On the contrary, it is simple and warm. See nicosmexico.mx.
THE LOCAL FOOD DISCOVERY OF THE PAST YEAR?
Eloise in San Angel, a small restaurant with delicious food. You can taste the passion and the quality of ingredients in every dish. Chef Abel Hernandez uses care in every detail. (Avenida Revolucion 1521,San Angel; +52 55 5550 1692.)
WHAT IS MEXICO CITY'S BEST-KEPT FOOD SECRET?
Definitively Nicos, mentioned above. It is in the heart of an old industrial and commercial area, far from the new boom restaurant area but it is worth every effort to go there.
PLACE TO GO ON A DAY OFF?
Coyoacan – the market and the restaurants in the main square around the fountain; or visit the museums and just walk around looking at the artisans and enjoying local food. Also, Mexico City downtown, which has so many important museums, churches and excellent restaurants, lots of history and art. And if it is a Saturday, don't miss el Bazaar Sabado. You can eat simple, very good food. See visitmexico.com; elbazaarsabado.com.
FAVOURITE INDULGENCE IN MEXICO CITY?
Pig's trotters from La Bella Lula in San Angel, and a visit to the Mercado Roma with lots of little restaurants and places with excellent food, desserts and wine. Famous chefs opened these informal places to offer a sample of their expertise and quality. See labellalula.com.mx; mercadoroma.com.
WHAT SHOULD A VISITOR AVOID, FOOD-WISE, IN MEXICO CITY?
Chain restaurants.